Street food in Calcutta to plan your life around

Street food in Calcutta/Kolkata fits itself in neatly with the city’s revolutionary heritage. In a state once ruled by the babulok-the bureaucratic classes, a college student arriving home saying they had already eaten became a form of rebellion. And in response to this new generation seeking to carve it’s niche on the streets, to give them an excuse to loiter and dissent, the parallel Chinese and Bengali cuisines in the city developed a line of lip-smacking dishes iconic to the age. I’ll stick to the dishes that are bound geographically with the city, that cannot be found anywhere else the world over, as the availability and range goes beyond what this post can express.

The Victoria Memorial in Calcutta – Credit: Pete Quinn

Puchka

Yes, technically this is available everywheree, but the Bengali version of the Western Pani Puri or the Northern Golguppa is unique in its perfection. Eaten whole, Crisp, airy deep fried dough cases are cracked open, stuffed with spiced mashed potatoes, dipped into tetul-jol (tamarind water) before being dunked generously into the icy-cold, spicy-hot paani or water. It also comes in a dahi variety where the paani is replaced with thin sweetened yoghurt.

Puchka – Credit: Suramya Khanal

Kathi Rolls

The kathi roll is all about that filling, a boon for the meat lovers who thought they’d have to go green for this trip. Chicken rolls, mutton rolls, egg rolls, even egg-mutton combination rolls, they’re enough for a full meal. A paratha (flat bread) is stuffed with the meat, vegetable or kabab of your choice, sometimes with a veneer of beaten egg after being fried on both sides. Then, dripped with an array of sauces and sprinkled with chaat masala and toppeded off with onions. The paratha is then rolled around the filling and held together with buttered paper or foil for your convenience.

Like a frankie or a wrap – Credit: Yutta Takanashi

Jhalmuri

This is a good option for health enthusiasts, served by travelling salesmen in a paper bag. Puffed rice is mixed together with boiled potato chunks and diced onions among many other ingredients. It is then flavoured with spicy and sweet chutneys and maybe some sev  or crushed puchka puris.

Puffed rice, onion and potato with various spices for extra flavour- Credit: bora_basanta

Ghugni

Ghugni is essentially a thick lentil soup made from the black matar daal, a winter favourite. It’s rumoured to be the best around Gariahat and is served hot with a salad topping of chopped onions and coriander.

Thick with lentils – Credit: Vegan Food

Chowmein

The settling of the Chinese in Calcutta has birthed many great cultural fusions, most famously the delicious Bengali strain of Chinese food. Chowmein is served up in steaming piles, a great value for the student budget. The noodles are distinctly Indian in flavour, full of assorted crunchy vegetables and heavy with oil. You can have it with any variety of meat under the sun or stick to just the vegetarian option.

Bengali version of chinese but with added spice – Credit: Adam Cohn

Momos

Momos are a soft, moist dumpling stuffed with chicken, pork or vegetables, brought in from Tibet by the refugees. Alternatively, you can have the fried version, crispy and hot. Both are served with an absolutely delicious, super-spicy gravy.

Momos and a spicy gravy – Credit: Karan Rajpal